Sunday, November 13, 2011

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2012 ♥ Part 1

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A.F. Vandevorst
An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx fused tribal inspirations taken from their recent trip to Kenya with signature military styling for a dark and brooding summer collection, with draped and wrapped constructions applied to shirt dresses in rich prints of paisley in dark spicy shades of brick red and burnt orange.

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Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton showed an array of delicate hourglass underwater creatures for her Spring Alexander McQueen collection. She based her collection on the three Gs: Grès for the pleating and draping, Gaudí for the architecture, and Gaia for the sense of all encompassing oceanic life that infused the clothes. Burton certainly has showed that she truly understood McQueen's design aesthetic as he has lived on in each of her creations. The Looks were all breathtakingly crafted with intricately laser-cut black leather, rippling ruffles, weighted kick flares, micro pleating and twisted trims.
and I am quite in love with that almost neon coral red splashed into the collection.

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Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester's muse this season was the Edwardian traveller, with cut-away frock coats and military-style buttoning, accessorised with silken tassels and fringing. The masculine look was softened with the wafting sheer layers which ran through the collection. On a simple palette of black and white with a sandy-tinted desert neutrals of soft earth-baked browns and smoky grey.


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Balenciaga
Futuristic sports seemed the main theme throughout Nicolas Ghesquière's Balenciaga s/s collection, with high-cut athletic shorts, wide shouldered boxy jackets and high-waisted tapered fabric-blocked pants. There was a play on Geometry with triangular shaped skirts and dresses.

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Carven
Guillaume Henry offered subversively sweet Lolita for the s/s Carven looks that were both innocent and provocative at the same time.
The collection had a fun Schoolgirl twist to it, with a keyhole cut-out on crisp collared shirts and Skater-skirted dresses, as well as cute lace inserts and crisp knife pleats.

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Céline
Phoebe Philo showed an ultra-sharp collection of uniform-inspired looks for Celine s/s12, There were neat collars, flat fronts and panelled details as well as pleated midiskirts tethered with a wide belt that cropped up throughout the collection. I really liked the military pocket detailing on exaggerated jacket shapes, on a seasonless palette of tonal whites with burgundy and bottle green, with black and an eye-popping accent of lacquer red.
Over all is was Sharp and precise with a twist of unexpected volume through reworked proportions.

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Chloé
Clare Waight Keller has replaced Chloé's Hannah MacGibbone and for her first collection for the label she has worked with elongated lines and a flurry of pleats. There was beautiful fabrics of chiffon, cotton, leather, linen, and mesh knits in an offbeat medley of mid-tones which had a vaguely retro feel to them with peaches, coral, burnt orange, and rose pink counterbalanced with cool spearmint, navy, black and white.
"Fluidity and femininity, but boyish" (style.com) were Waight Keller's buzzwords backstage.


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Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld continued the trend of underwater goddess this season with with the lightest tweed and summer bouclé, spangled with pearly sequins and shot with cellophane yarns, creating an almost translucent feel as well as iridescent satin and pearlescent leathers that slightly resembled the translucence of jellyfish, while iridescent blue gazar reflected light like ripples on water. Of course there was still the classic Chanel Cardigan suit which had strands of pearls replacing the traditional gold chain belt on the softest of tweeds. All on an underwater pallet of shell pinks, aquatic blues, pale aquamarines, corals, and splashes of silver.

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Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo showed a collection that was both Serene and ceremonial.. On a pallet of bone, ivory, milky translucent whites and creams, there were strong couture references in her architectural silhouettes worked in sculpted satins and the most delicate lace. She explored the role of white in all life’s most celebrated ceremonies, from birth to death and the joy of marriage.

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Christian Dior
Bill Gaytten celebrated the houses heritage and happier times by looking back to the famous 1950's silhouette but reworking it by softening the shoulders, raising the waist and contemporary lengths of the full skirts that finished above the knee. On a pallet of scarlets, orange-reds with nudes, skin pinks, blacks and whites.

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Costume National
Candy pink and pastel seafoam blue added a feminine twist to Ennio Capasa’s hard-edged angular silhouettes, with subtle masculine and feminine influences and an 80s rock chic appeal.

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Damir Doma
Damir Doma returned to his signature nomadic draping for summer. There were Egyptian undertones with the gold embellishments, wrapped skirts and gladiator sandals. detailed with raw edges, ravaged misaligned hems, bias cuts, drapes and gathered volume of fabric.

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Dries Van Noten
The highlight of this collection for me was definitely the stunning array of detailed photograph prints. As the designer combined jungle prints and seascapes with monochrome prints taken from photoprints of photographer James Reeve, featuring pinpoints of light in a night sky.
There was an almost architectural feel to the collection with boxy dresses, and structured lines but softened with ruffle details and waterfall frills. I enjoyed the minimal monochrome pallet that was brightened with splashes of colour. One of my favourite collections from Dries Van Noten.


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James Reeve's Photography "Landscapes" inspired Dries Van Notens Prints.
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